This week's problem strips the climbing experience down to its bare bones- its essence! This problem is very much like a three chord Ramones tune: clean, efficient, minimal, in your face, aggressive and purposeful. If climbing could be boiled down, reduced to one move, this move is the one I would choose; it is punchy and delicate in equal measure, fustrating when close, amazing when sent. No other problem on Pisa wall demands dynamism of this quality. The Seven foot dyno might be bigger, but this problem is definitly better; it requires the would-be ascentionist to float rather than fly!
The Pex Dyno V7.
I could be minimal in my description of this problem, it is a one move dyno
or deadpoint after all, however this would rob you of the essential beta which
drags this problem into the realm of reality. Firstly locate hold 18 - it is a
long shallow crimp. The surface of this hold is rather uniform save for a small
rough dimple found slightly left of centre, the pad of the index finger on you
left hand needs to nestle in this depression. Once orientated, both hands need to
crimp hold 18; don't expect to generate a lot of power from your hands on this
problem- body position is key. Now that your hands are set, put your left foot in
a lowish dimple directly below your hands. The right foot is placed square to
the wall on a prominent dimple up and right. Now it is time for flight; movement
will be initiated from the left foot, this will swing your centre of gravity up
and over your right foot, this allows you to spring off the right foot and float
up to the break. Match and enjoy. This move is all about timing; it works like
a rock over, it looks like a dyno, but if you get it right, it feels like magic!
Pex Dyno V7 from Owen McShane on Vimeo.